Tuesday, March 29, 2016
Vintage Sports Chronograph - Omega Speedmaster Pre-Moon
Early straight-lugged models are beautiful, but prices for even the least expensive piece – the 105.003 “Ed White” – have gone nuts recently and $10,000 seems to be the price of entry. No, instead, I’d focus on a twisted lug model such as the Professional 145.012 as they’re the most common “Pre-Moons” containing the lovely column-wheel 321 movements. These contain what is essentially the same big 42mm case with 20mm lugs that we have today.
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Vintage Sports Chronograph - Heuer Carrera 2447
The Autavia has probably garnered slightly more fame recently than its understated stable mate, but the original Carrera defines the essence of clean, legible chronograph design. Honestly, what else what you expect from a company that made dash timers for rally drivers? You’ll see that I listed the ref.2447 specifically instead of the 2-register 3647. Well, it’s for a reason. I like 2-reigster chronographs, but I find triple register pieces far more deserving of attention. More replica TAG Heuer Carrera.
The fact that the Carrera pulls off a lot of detail so cleanly makes it worth the added complexity on the dial. During their production run, beginning in 1963, the 36mm diameter Heuers with 18mm lug widths, were made in a variety of dial configurations and the design of things like hour markers changed as well.
For me, the earlier simple pieces such as the white/silver dials are best. Sure, I love the pandas, reverse pandas and exotic dials too, but the basic, single-colored dial is the quintessential Carrera. Up until a couple years ago, finding a good, cheap Carrera was easy.
Thursday, March 17, 2016
2016 Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300 Review
For buyers interested in a 24-hour time zone watch without a chronograph function, the famous World Time watch is being relaunched with a new 38.5 mm rose gold or white gold case, a newly designed pierced hour hand, and a manually guilloched dial centre that is positively stunning. Completed with a shiny black or shiny chocolate brown alligator strap. Ref. 5230 World Time. Self-winding mechanical movement Caliber 240 HU.
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Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m Co-Axial Master Chronometer 215.30.44.22.01.001
The 43.5mm stainless steel case has a black ceramic dial and attaches to a new patterned rubber strap. Rubber has been blended with ceramic to create a new diving bezel. Here, orange rubber covers the first 15 minutes while Liquidmetal is used for the markings inset into the ceramic.
The dial is also made in ceramic, black and polished as the bezel (look closely just above the “C0-Axial” marking at 6 ‘clock and you will see the “Zr02” inscription on indicating the ceramic composition). Applied indices, large arrow hands, orange 6/9/12 and a date window on matching black background at 3 round out the dial. OMEGA Master Chronometer 8900 provides the beating heart.
2016 Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 39.5mm in Sedna Gold
The new 39.5 mm case, as opposed to the 37.5 mm or 42 mm case currently in the collection, is a welcome addition to those looking for something in between the two sizes.
The watch is now available in Sedna™ gold with brown ceramic bezel and shimmery brown dial or the two-tone version in Sedna™ gold and stainless steel. Both come with a rubber or leather strap.
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Wednesday, March 2, 2016
Triple-calendar “Panda” Heuer Carrera Watch
During its early life, the Carrera has been made in many versions: silver dial, black dial, black-and-white “panda” and “reverse-panda” dials, two or three registers, with several movements (Valjoux 72, Valjoux 92 and Valjoux 7730), with or without date.
Though all of these are collectible, one has to be considered apart, the only version that came with a “real” complication: the Heuer Carrera Dato 12 Ref. 2547.
Heuer Silverstone Watch with blue dial
The watches that Heuer released in the 1970s were audacious in their design and stood apart from the rest of the industry. With the conservative Carrera as an exception, Heuer’s models included the big and bulky Autavia and the iconic, square-shaped Monaco.
All of them shared the same very interesting movement, Calibre 11, and eventually its evolved version, Calibre 12, known as the first automatic chronograph, which was first presented in 1969.
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